Friday, October 12, 2012

SLABTOWN!!


Slabtown…

So… I have recently reopened my love of a pub/bar here in Northwest Portland. Slabtown (http://www.slabtownbar.net/) a great place to chill, hang, AND EAT! I used to frequent Slabtown when I first moved to Portland there were always good shows throughout the week, and they have pin ball. The two things I love on a weekday. It was never really the friendliest place but they had the things I liked. Somewhere around 3 years ago I had an awful experience there with an unruly bar tender, so I never went back.
Fast forward two years. A good friend of mine bought Slabtown and has since turned it back into the local hangout I really craved back when. I want to clarify right out of the gates; I don’t go to bars on a regular basis, mostly because the food in general is lacking love, and the atmosphere is not conducive to my life style. So it really takes a lot for a bar to get my attention.
Since my friend took over Slabtown the bar has gone back into a direction of great times. Since it’s re-opening I have been back to Slabtown on a number of occasions, I mean com'on, how can I pass up a great rock show, giant monster wresting, a punk show, Dave’s birthday smash, and of course Bay Area playoff baseball.
There are two main rooms at Slabtown, the main bar room with a great stage and booth seating situated right along the street perfect for alfresco bar diving, and the second room, a back alcove lined with booths for private meetings, and two couches for viewing of a big screen TV. Oh don’t forget the wide selection of vintage arcade games and VHS library. Yes I said VHS library, for those of you from my generation you know how cool this is.
So onward to the actual experience of being at Slabtown; it was Tuesday and the Giants and A’s were in the midst of must win games for the division series. My friend we’ll call him “Dave” is a great baseball fan and his ability to talk about the subtleties of the game makes for a great experience in itself. I had sent “Dave” a text earlier in the day to find out where he would be watching the games, his response “Slabtown of course.” I may be forgetting the actual context, but you get the jest of it. So we met at Slabtown.
“Dave” had already secured us a spot in the backroom on the couches with the big screen TV set to the game. I plopped myself down and dove in. The bar tender a handsome man we’ll call him “Doug” came back to check in with us and see if we were in need of anything. I knew that a new Chef had recently taken over in the kitchen, providing a great menu of Lebanese favorites; Fatoush Salad, Falafel, Pita (homemade), and a Vegan Gyro. Oh and of course Double Blanched French Fries. This guy is doing it right. “Doug” recommended that I get the Falafel Sandwich and fries, on his suggestion I choose the afore mentioned.  “Doug” also knowing of my culinary prowess let me know I have to try the “Vegan” gyro fixing’s. As I patiently awaited my meal “Dave” and I watched the A’s vs. Tigers. The last time the A’s faced the Tigers in the playoffs I was at the Oakland Coliseum enjoying firsthand the magic that is; October Baseball. The A’s won that series on their way to a tuff ALCS loss.
Just as I had finished telling my story, “Doug” re-entered with sandwich and fries in hand.  I couldn’t stop staring at it…The sandwich was gorgeous. The first part that caught my eye were the beet pickled turnips that stood precariously out of the top, surrounded by a bed of shredded cabbage, enclosed in a soft warm pita. Alongside my sandwich are the perfectly golden brown fries; now I may be a fine chef, but that does not mean I don’t love me some good fries. Oh baby, is all I can think as I dig into this masterpiece. All the components have obviously been carefully selected and created with the utmost love for food. I pick up the two handed beauty to take my first bite, all the bright flavors stand up and yell in mouth; “YEAH BOY!!!!” no joke this Falafel is great. Crispy, tender, herbaceous, and bright, pickled turnips bring this bad boy together in a radiant symbiosis of salt, vinegar, and texture. After a few delectable bites of the sandwich I move onto my fries; love at first bite, golden, crispy, tender, salty, oh baby this Chef is after my heart.
It’s important to remember that you do not have to be a Michelin Stared Chef to produce great food. Many times these great dishes are hidden away in the most unlikely of places.
“Doug” came back to check in and asks; “How was the sandwich?”  I cannot describe to him in words so I simply grin and nod in an intentionally slow and seductive balance. He knows that’s a good sign, and he knows I have been satisfied; you see, “Doug” is also a baseball guy and he understands the body language.
The A’s went on to win the game, and “Dave” and I  wound up with a pretty damn good conversation about what theme restaurant will work best in Portland; I’ll say this, when it happens you’ll know.
So, open your mind and mouth, and swing by Slabtown. Tell them that Andrew sent you. And most importantly; never judge a book by its cover. All the best and happy cooking.

Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Fun on the Farms


Farm Tours are FUN!!!!

So on September 16th, 2012 I took a farm tour with a group of fantastic folks who had purchased the trip an auction in support of a great charity. (Education) I have a soft spot in my heart for the kids. And it also means I get to educate their parents for 6 hours with hands on experience at real farms with real produce.
We start our trip at KitchenCru (www.kitchencru.biz); I greet all of 10 of my guests for the day, short introductions and off we go. We load into our twelve passenger travel van quick reminder, “please keep your hands and feet inside the vehicle while we are moving!”
We head north on I-5, as our destination is 17 miles north of Portland in beautiful Ridgefield, WA. On our agenda today; Red Truck Farm (http://redtruckfarmpdx.blogspot.com/), Full Plate Farm (http://fullplatefarm.com/), East Fork Cellars (http://www.eastforkcellars.com/), and Newman’s Fish Co. (http://www.newmansfish.com/).
It takes a quick 25 minutes to cruise up to Ridgefield and reach Red Truck Farm. The first thing you notice pulling into the farm is a huge walnut tree sprawling with leaves of green and soon to drop fruit. As I maneuver the van into the driveway our first host Jason K. emerges from behind a small green house. As my guests filter out of the van under the shade of the walnut tree, Jason greets us with a warm smile and kind greeting. After a short introduction to the farm, Jason leads us down the driveway towards his starting house. The green house where he starts all of the herbs and plants that grow on his farm. This time of year the starting house is fairly empty as almost all the crops are in the ground. We walk through the starting house and towards the first field where Jason introduces us to a fantastic treat; ground cherries. (http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/ground_cherry.htmThese tart treats are a delicious snack and a blast to pick, as you have to reach through the thick vines to find the fruit of this terrific plant. After we have our fill of ground cherries we move onto the largest of Red Truck’s fields. Here we discover many varieties of potato as well as a bountiful selection of Basil. Jason has put forth an outstanding effort to grow these different types of basil. If you’ve bought local basil at New Seasons stores you’ve probably enjoyed Red Trucks basil. There is your typical Genovese Basil, Opal Basil, Thai Basil, Lemon Basil, Cinnamon Basil, and Purple Ruffle Basil. The variety that Red Truck offers is spectacular not only in flavor but color. As we meander through the basil we begin the 90 degree turn back towards Red Truck’s newest hoop house, here we are introduced to Amber, Jason’s wife who also besides a regular full time job delves deep into the joy of creating some of the best produce in our area. Amber has been picking ripe Heirloom Tomatoes and offers up some of the bounty she has recently harvested. As we reach the hoop house we notice a colorful to say the least row of peppers. “There are so many!” One of my guests exclaims. Much like Me Jason is a total chili head. His selection of peppers ranges from super-hot to mild frying peppers. Including my personal favorite, the Bulgarian Carrot Pepper. (http://sustainableseedco.com/Bulgarian-Carrot-Pepper-Seeds.html) These peppers have a sizzling heat that leads into a beautiful citrus undertone. They really are a great salsa pepper, color, flavor, and heat. Everything you need for a perfect salsa. You can find many of Red Truck Farm’s peppers at your local New Seasons Markets. Our lesson in chili peppers concludes and Jason leads us up to try some of his Heirloom Tomatoes. These succulent, acidy, and tasty tomatoes are perfect for the ragu I plan to create for dinner. We conclude our trip to Red Truck Farms by visiting the store house, where Jason and Amber prepare their selection of vegetables for delivery to local restaurants and New Season Markets. Just as we are getting to the van, our guests ask to have a photo taken with both Amber and Jason, we snap a quick photo and off we go.

Our next destination is Full Plate Farm, (http://fullplatefarm.com/ ) it is only a short drive from Red Truck Farm, and a beautiful one at that. As we reach the long black berry lined driveway I can hear my guests chattering about the fields full of green. We reach the end of drive and there we find a garden table with a bright bouquet of flowers from the field and fresh water to quench our thirst. Danny Perich turns the corner from his hoop house to greet us. Danny a well-spoken, man with a wonderfully warm smile and demeanor, welcomes us to enjoy a glass of water, as we sip from the glasses Danny gives a brief description of his farming history then leads us towards a green house, where again we have the opportunity to pick another wonderful gem the Mexican Sour Gherkin (http://www.yougrowgirl.com/2007/08/05/mexican-sour-gherkins/) these tasty treats have many uses including; pickled, sliced and salted, and of course pickled. We move on from the green house to the open fields lined with all varieties of late summer and fall vegetables. Danny enthusiastically shares about the carrots he has grown since the beginning and sturdy bright carrot full of flavor and potential. We are introduced to another special treat; parsley root, a root vegetable often used in braises and soups, it is opaque in color and full of a powerful flavor, similar to celery root this vegetable has many uses. Danny leads us toward yet another spectacular sight; Red Brussel Sprouts!! I had never before seen these gems but here they are. The sprouts won’t begin to bud until the winter but the plants are gorgeous and bright. I can’t wait to use these. As we venture up to see Full Plate’s choices of chicory we receive a lesson in ground cover and the roll it plays in growing greens. We all have a chance to try this bitter green, and I explain the many uses for chicory in the fall and winter kitchen, not only as a palate pleasing green but also as a terrific addition to any braised green dish. Retreating towards our van Danny invites us to pick some of the remaining black berries that line his driveway. Picking and snacking Danny continues to share about his passion for farming and his CSA. If you are looking to get into a CSA this is one I would not miss. The love and Care that goes into every plant on Full Plate Farm is un-matched by many other options available.
Again we load into our van and head to our final destination; Newman’s Fish Market (http://www.newmansfish.com/). Located in the heart of Northwest Portland (21st. & Johnson) Newman’s fish is nestled in the rear corner of City Market, a collaboration of many great local producers like Pasta Works, and Chop Butchery (http://chopbutchery.com/) if you need good meat and lord knows we all do this is the place. I recommend everything that these folks produce especially their country and seasonal pates. Moving onto our fish; we reach the counter where Greg one of my favorite fish mongers is busy chatting to customers, he excuses himself from the customer and greets us. Greg is bubbly man, with many tattoos and a few piercings, don’t be fooled he’s a teddy bear, and the man knows his fish. I had previously spoken with Greg about what is in season and available, he recommended Oregon Black Cod. A white fish with a meaty texture and full of flavor. As Greg describes the process of breaking down this delectable fish I notice a gem shining in the fish case. Monkey Face Eel; (http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/article/Monkeyface-eel-becoming-a-star-on-dinner-platters-3371280.php) A treat from my childhood. When I was young my father would spend time “poke polling” on the rocks of Ft. Bragg’s Salt Point, during our annual camping trip, it was hear I first learned of the little known fishes powerful flavor.
After Greg wraps up our fresh catch we head to our final van ride of the day; finally we are heading cook dinner and enjoy the day’s bounty. Upon arrival at KitchenCru my assistant Jay Anthony has put together a few summer starters; figs with Oregon Blue Cheese and balsamic gastrique. A nice way to welcome us back. Immediately Jay and I begin to un-pack our tremendous haul. Our first course is a tasty treat, that fine Monkey Face Eel is seared to a crisp on the skin and basted with butter. I place it on a delicate blend of chard and kale from Red Truck Farm, and braised with smoked bacon, I tip the dish with the addition of edible flowers from Full Plate Farm. Our next course is a ragu of eggplant (Red Truck Farm), turnips (Full Plate), frying peppers (Red Truck), and cherry tomatoes (Full Plate). Finished with butter and topped with fried thyme.
Our third course is the star of this meal, after deviating from my initial plan Jay and I decide that the cod should be wrapped in Chard and served atop a bed of Tongue of Fire beans (Red Truck), Heirloom Tomatoes (Red Truck) and topped with fried apple green eggplant (Red Truck) (http://www.localharvest.org/applegreen-eggplant-seeds-C15132). This is a great compliment to a fantastic day of adventure. Oh wait there’s more; I could never forget our fabulous dessert supplied by my favorite baker. Sara from PieKu Pies. (https://www.facebook.com/PiekuPie) Sara puts an unrelenting effort into creating amazing pie, with seasonal selections as well as ready to bake pie dough. Look her up, you won’t be sorry I guarantee it.
So with the finishing touches put onto a wonderful day of touring, wine tasting, and dining. I send my guests home full of new stories and a new love for local farmers.
I truly love to share my experiences with others and it is such a pleasure to see these folks light up when one of our farmers explains a small detail about the plants they grow.  It is not too often that we have the chance to meet the people who grow our food, and when we do it is a truly special experience. A huge thank you to Jason and Amber of Red Truck Farm, Danny at Full Plate Farm, and Greg of Newman’s Fish Co.