Tuesday, October 2, 2012

Fun on the Farms


Farm Tours are FUN!!!!

So on September 16th, 2012 I took a farm tour with a group of fantastic folks who had purchased the trip an auction in support of a great charity. (Education) I have a soft spot in my heart for the kids. And it also means I get to educate their parents for 6 hours with hands on experience at real farms with real produce.
We start our trip at KitchenCru (www.kitchencru.biz); I greet all of 10 of my guests for the day, short introductions and off we go. We load into our twelve passenger travel van quick reminder, “please keep your hands and feet inside the vehicle while we are moving!”
We head north on I-5, as our destination is 17 miles north of Portland in beautiful Ridgefield, WA. On our agenda today; Red Truck Farm (http://redtruckfarmpdx.blogspot.com/), Full Plate Farm (http://fullplatefarm.com/), East Fork Cellars (http://www.eastforkcellars.com/), and Newman’s Fish Co. (http://www.newmansfish.com/).
It takes a quick 25 minutes to cruise up to Ridgefield and reach Red Truck Farm. The first thing you notice pulling into the farm is a huge walnut tree sprawling with leaves of green and soon to drop fruit. As I maneuver the van into the driveway our first host Jason K. emerges from behind a small green house. As my guests filter out of the van under the shade of the walnut tree, Jason greets us with a warm smile and kind greeting. After a short introduction to the farm, Jason leads us down the driveway towards his starting house. The green house where he starts all of the herbs and plants that grow on his farm. This time of year the starting house is fairly empty as almost all the crops are in the ground. We walk through the starting house and towards the first field where Jason introduces us to a fantastic treat; ground cherries. (http://www.tradewindsfruit.com/ground_cherry.htmThese tart treats are a delicious snack and a blast to pick, as you have to reach through the thick vines to find the fruit of this terrific plant. After we have our fill of ground cherries we move onto the largest of Red Truck’s fields. Here we discover many varieties of potato as well as a bountiful selection of Basil. Jason has put forth an outstanding effort to grow these different types of basil. If you’ve bought local basil at New Seasons stores you’ve probably enjoyed Red Trucks basil. There is your typical Genovese Basil, Opal Basil, Thai Basil, Lemon Basil, Cinnamon Basil, and Purple Ruffle Basil. The variety that Red Truck offers is spectacular not only in flavor but color. As we meander through the basil we begin the 90 degree turn back towards Red Truck’s newest hoop house, here we are introduced to Amber, Jason’s wife who also besides a regular full time job delves deep into the joy of creating some of the best produce in our area. Amber has been picking ripe Heirloom Tomatoes and offers up some of the bounty she has recently harvested. As we reach the hoop house we notice a colorful to say the least row of peppers. “There are so many!” One of my guests exclaims. Much like Me Jason is a total chili head. His selection of peppers ranges from super-hot to mild frying peppers. Including my personal favorite, the Bulgarian Carrot Pepper. (http://sustainableseedco.com/Bulgarian-Carrot-Pepper-Seeds.html) These peppers have a sizzling heat that leads into a beautiful citrus undertone. They really are a great salsa pepper, color, flavor, and heat. Everything you need for a perfect salsa. You can find many of Red Truck Farm’s peppers at your local New Seasons Markets. Our lesson in chili peppers concludes and Jason leads us up to try some of his Heirloom Tomatoes. These succulent, acidy, and tasty tomatoes are perfect for the ragu I plan to create for dinner. We conclude our trip to Red Truck Farms by visiting the store house, where Jason and Amber prepare their selection of vegetables for delivery to local restaurants and New Season Markets. Just as we are getting to the van, our guests ask to have a photo taken with both Amber and Jason, we snap a quick photo and off we go.

Our next destination is Full Plate Farm, (http://fullplatefarm.com/ ) it is only a short drive from Red Truck Farm, and a beautiful one at that. As we reach the long black berry lined driveway I can hear my guests chattering about the fields full of green. We reach the end of drive and there we find a garden table with a bright bouquet of flowers from the field and fresh water to quench our thirst. Danny Perich turns the corner from his hoop house to greet us. Danny a well-spoken, man with a wonderfully warm smile and demeanor, welcomes us to enjoy a glass of water, as we sip from the glasses Danny gives a brief description of his farming history then leads us towards a green house, where again we have the opportunity to pick another wonderful gem the Mexican Sour Gherkin (http://www.yougrowgirl.com/2007/08/05/mexican-sour-gherkins/) these tasty treats have many uses including; pickled, sliced and salted, and of course pickled. We move on from the green house to the open fields lined with all varieties of late summer and fall vegetables. Danny enthusiastically shares about the carrots he has grown since the beginning and sturdy bright carrot full of flavor and potential. We are introduced to another special treat; parsley root, a root vegetable often used in braises and soups, it is opaque in color and full of a powerful flavor, similar to celery root this vegetable has many uses. Danny leads us toward yet another spectacular sight; Red Brussel Sprouts!! I had never before seen these gems but here they are. The sprouts won’t begin to bud until the winter but the plants are gorgeous and bright. I can’t wait to use these. As we venture up to see Full Plate’s choices of chicory we receive a lesson in ground cover and the roll it plays in growing greens. We all have a chance to try this bitter green, and I explain the many uses for chicory in the fall and winter kitchen, not only as a palate pleasing green but also as a terrific addition to any braised green dish. Retreating towards our van Danny invites us to pick some of the remaining black berries that line his driveway. Picking and snacking Danny continues to share about his passion for farming and his CSA. If you are looking to get into a CSA this is one I would not miss. The love and Care that goes into every plant on Full Plate Farm is un-matched by many other options available.
Again we load into our van and head to our final destination; Newman’s Fish Market (http://www.newmansfish.com/). Located in the heart of Northwest Portland (21st. & Johnson) Newman’s fish is nestled in the rear corner of City Market, a collaboration of many great local producers like Pasta Works, and Chop Butchery (http://chopbutchery.com/) if you need good meat and lord knows we all do this is the place. I recommend everything that these folks produce especially their country and seasonal pates. Moving onto our fish; we reach the counter where Greg one of my favorite fish mongers is busy chatting to customers, he excuses himself from the customer and greets us. Greg is bubbly man, with many tattoos and a few piercings, don’t be fooled he’s a teddy bear, and the man knows his fish. I had previously spoken with Greg about what is in season and available, he recommended Oregon Black Cod. A white fish with a meaty texture and full of flavor. As Greg describes the process of breaking down this delectable fish I notice a gem shining in the fish case. Monkey Face Eel; (http://www.sfgate.com/restaurants/article/Monkeyface-eel-becoming-a-star-on-dinner-platters-3371280.php) A treat from my childhood. When I was young my father would spend time “poke polling” on the rocks of Ft. Bragg’s Salt Point, during our annual camping trip, it was hear I first learned of the little known fishes powerful flavor.
After Greg wraps up our fresh catch we head to our final van ride of the day; finally we are heading cook dinner and enjoy the day’s bounty. Upon arrival at KitchenCru my assistant Jay Anthony has put together a few summer starters; figs with Oregon Blue Cheese and balsamic gastrique. A nice way to welcome us back. Immediately Jay and I begin to un-pack our tremendous haul. Our first course is a tasty treat, that fine Monkey Face Eel is seared to a crisp on the skin and basted with butter. I place it on a delicate blend of chard and kale from Red Truck Farm, and braised with smoked bacon, I tip the dish with the addition of edible flowers from Full Plate Farm. Our next course is a ragu of eggplant (Red Truck Farm), turnips (Full Plate), frying peppers (Red Truck), and cherry tomatoes (Full Plate). Finished with butter and topped with fried thyme.
Our third course is the star of this meal, after deviating from my initial plan Jay and I decide that the cod should be wrapped in Chard and served atop a bed of Tongue of Fire beans (Red Truck), Heirloom Tomatoes (Red Truck) and topped with fried apple green eggplant (Red Truck) (http://www.localharvest.org/applegreen-eggplant-seeds-C15132). This is a great compliment to a fantastic day of adventure. Oh wait there’s more; I could never forget our fabulous dessert supplied by my favorite baker. Sara from PieKu Pies. (https://www.facebook.com/PiekuPie) Sara puts an unrelenting effort into creating amazing pie, with seasonal selections as well as ready to bake pie dough. Look her up, you won’t be sorry I guarantee it.
So with the finishing touches put onto a wonderful day of touring, wine tasting, and dining. I send my guests home full of new stories and a new love for local farmers.
I truly love to share my experiences with others and it is such a pleasure to see these folks light up when one of our farmers explains a small detail about the plants they grow.  It is not too often that we have the chance to meet the people who grow our food, and when we do it is a truly special experience. A huge thank you to Jason and Amber of Red Truck Farm, Danny at Full Plate Farm, and Greg of Newman’s Fish Co. 

Friday, September 28, 2012

New York City Summed up.


So… It has been a crazy three weeks for me and NW Elixirs Hott Sauce as well as my catering company High Heat Catering.
                First things first; I’m pretty sure everyone out there wants to know how my trips to NYC turned out. Well, I fell in love…With the city of course, the culture, food, art, architecture, but the most amazing part of NYC is the pace in which the city moves. I use the term “pace” often to say the least. It’s a rugby term that refers to the timing and cohesion of the game. And in the case of New York City, the term fits appropriately. Those who live in the city or surrounding burrows move with a purpose. I can now see where the common misconception of New Yorkers being rude stems from, to an average person or tourist rubber necking, the pace of the city and its inhabitants could seem rude, people don’t just stop to smell the roses, they have jobs often two or three, they are striving to be on time because if you miss a bus any one of the next thousand people may get the job done before them. There is no time to waste in NYC only time to be productive. I felt right at home in this city, it was like I was meant to be there. I have always enjoyed being on time, the pleasure of knowing if I work hard I can achieve my goals, and of course the play hard that comes with that. I spoke with many New Yorkers asked for directions enjoyed the subway and of course the pace. So don’t let the stereotypes rule your experience; well I guess that can go for all aspects of life. When you get the chance go to New York City, enjoy the lights, sounds, smells, flavors, and people. Ask a local where their favorite restaurant is veer off the beaten path and experience more than the typical tourist activities. Join the pace and see the Big Apple as it is meant to be seen. 

Wednesday, May 16, 2012

A night with Riffle NW


As you may already know just by reading a few of my previous blog posts; I love food.
Tonight was another of those nights where I had no intention of going out to eat. In fact I was on my back from the grocery store, salami and fontina cheese in hand ready for a nice quiet dinner alone at home. I am a simple man at heart. But serendipity had other plans for me this evening. My good friend Ben sent me a text asking if I’d like to grab a bite to eat. He reminded me that Riffle NW (Riffle NW is a new “Catch Inspired” restaurant in Northwest Portland). (http://rifflenw.com/) was officially open.  It had totally passed my mind that tonight was the opening night. I jumped at the opportunity at hand.  
Ben picked me up from the apartment and we headed down to grab what I anticipated to be a few small bites and good conversation. What ultimately unfolded was an absolute dance on my palate. Given the warm night the Pearl District was buzzing; similar to nights I spent in the open street fairs of Germany. The smell of well prepared food, the sound of busy cafes and, people laughing with delight. As we enter Riffle NW we notice that they are obviously slammed. The hostess greats us with a huge smile and gleefully welcomes us. As we wait for our table I scan the room to see who’s here, and to no surprise it’s the who’s who of Portland's food and drink scene. This is going to be good.
We are seated near the open kitchen where we can watch the action up close; you all know how much I like to watch. I turn around to say hello to Chef Ken Norris and he beats me to the punch line with a grin he says, “great to see you guys.”
I guess I should tell you; I have seen this project take shape since the first day. And when it comes to fresh seafood these guys and gals know what they’re doing. I’ve been waiting for this dinner way too long.  
On to the meal:
My first taste of Riffle NW is a Sea Urchin and Quail Egg shooter. This is a fantastic way to start our experience. The fat of the egg in conjunction of with the salty sea flavor of the urchin is delectable. An ideal combination of fat, salt and, acid to start a meal.
Next: Peppered Hush Puppies, I could not possibly ignore these beauties. A perfect combination of fried corn fritters and the "To die for" maple butter. The crispy exterior gives way to a soft core with a wonderful pepper undertone. Add the maple butter and it's heaven. I am going to dream about these guys. 
Next up: Salt Roasted Spot Prawns. If you have never heard of these guys it's time you have. These are found off the the west coast, from California to Alaska, their name is derived from the incandescent spots located on the outer shell. The flavor and texture of these bad boys is un-matched by any other. With this said; You can smell the prawns from the pass; the aroma makes my mouth water the moment my nose catches wind of the dish. Again, another well thought dish. I separate the head from the body and suck the sweet tamale from the salty shell. Oh, oh so freaking good, with the lingering flavor of the tamale still on my palate, I separate the shell from the flesh and bite into the perfectly cooked flesh of the prawn. The combination of sweet salty shell fish is a magical experience not to be missed by any means.


Entrees? Yes. Yes we will. Black Rock Fish with braised greens and celery. I start to chuckle, the sight of this dish alone brings me to a place I once knew, where sea meets earth and flavor profiles dance methodically through an open valley of fragrant aromas. for the simple man, this dish is perfect. Crisp tender rock fish with tender greens. Again heaven on earth.
 Just as I think we are wrapping up our amazing dinner, I can hear Chef over my shoulder, "Think of me on your run tomorrow." with a devious laugh. Our server drops off the Tarte Flambe with little neck clams and melted onions. Again the simplicity of the dish is also the beauty of it. A true classic spun to represent the essence of Riffle NW.
These were roasted Brussels sprouts with bacon, as you can see we really liked these. 
The last bite: At the end of the night I reflect back to August of 2011 when I first met the owners and chef of Riffle NW, from the first time I saw them cook, and was fortunate enough to try some of their small bites, I knew this restaurant would be special. (No I don't say that to all the pretty girls.) This establishment takes great pride in the food they prepare, the pure love of fresh seafood is exemplified in every bite.  Here at Riffle NW the moment you walk through the door your senses are heightened and teased, the ambiance is classy and refined, the bustling cooks are well mannered and attentive to every detail. Service is impeccable; the owners care about your experience. Every detail of the dining room has been well thought; the way a watchmaker cares for every cog. 
We were treated to an experience tonight; one that I have no doubt will be repeated with every visit. I can not say enough good things about Riffle NW.  Thank you to all the staff who have made this; an experience I will not soon forget.